In The Kitchen

With 13 eggnog recipes before me, I see eggnog spelled as 2 words, with 1 and 2 g’s in nog, with eggs separated and not separated, with no egg whites at all, with and without cream, with whiskey and no rum, rum and no whiskey.  As a Virginian, I’ve never been conflicted about eggnog.  But recently when asked whether I preferred Virginia or Baltimore Eggnog, I began to do a little asking around and found a lot of conflicting information.  Being a farm girl from Central Virginia, we always made eggnog with our own raw milk and cream, eggs warm from the nest and whiskey from a neighbor and I used the same ingredients until today.

I know, however that I cannot share this recipe, not because it’s some large secret or that you may not have access to raw milk and warm hen eggs but because Ed died this fall.  So I thought that I’d create another eggnog recipe.  The best part of this job was the sampling. 

Here are my two best efforts and you can sample for yourself.

Using a stand mixer beat 1 dozen eggs until pale yellow, slowly add 2 1/2 cups granulated sugar.  More slowly add 3 cups fine brandy and 3 cups dark rum.  Continuing to beat slowly, add 1 quart whole milk and 1 quart whole cream and 1 tablespoon freshly grated nutmeg and set aside to chill.   Store in glass container with tightly fitting top.

In a large saucepan over low heat, mix 1 dozen eggs, 1 quart of milk and 2 1/2 cups sugar, cook over low heat until it coats the back of a metal spoon. Remove from heat and place pan in a bowl of ice and stir until cool.  Add 5 cups dark rum and 1 cup brandy and chill.  Before serving, beat 1 pint of cream to soft peaks, add 1 tablespoon freshly grated nutmeg and 1/2 cup sugar.  Fold into eggnog and serve.  

Happy Holidays

Having learned about the 100-Mile Diet and the ensuing 100-Mile Thanksgiving hosted by Tom Beatley, professor of sustainable communities at the University of Virginia, I am confident that both efforts encourage some people to search for more local ingredients to add to their diet—to “buy fresh and buy local”, if you will. I, on the other hand, took it as a challenge to see whether or not a feast meal, such as our traditional Thanksgiving or Christmas could be prepared with foods sourced within a 50-mile radius here in central Virginia.  Ron and I set our goal to find as many ingredients for our traditional feasts as possible.  Taking a look at A Map of Scenic Roads in Virginia, and using the scale provided, we drew a circle with a radius of 50 miles, using Charlottesville, Virginia as the center. The circumference of the circle passed through Fredericksburg, Sperryville, Lacey Springs, Buena Vista, Madison Heights, Appomattox, Powhatan, Manikin-Sabot, Montpelier, Spotsylvania and all points in between.  Obviously, you can perform a similar exercise from your own home, where you may find sources of local growers and food producers that you’ve never thought of.

We were committed to the task, regardless of what could be found. This adventure could be approached from two points of view.  Usually when sourcing food locally we would create a menu from available ingredients found at local farmers markets, farms, and grocery stores carrying local foods.  Wanting to maintain out traditional menus as part of the challenge however, we decided to make a list of ingredients we would need, shop the list locally and then see what substituted we’d need to make.

 We typically have peanut soup for Christmas.  Though they are a native Virginia product, they are raised outside the 50-mile limit.  Securing mushrooms from Sharondale, we chose to make mushroom soup instead. The same is true of oysters, always a part of our holiday celebration, but since there is no substitute, we eliminated them from the menu. There are two other items, cranberries and oranges, which can play heavily in some of my holiday recipes that are not grown in Virginia and we decided to eliminate them from our traditional menus substituting instead, homemade chutneys. Finally the dried fruits used to make our traditional fruitcakes are not native to Virginia and so we ate fruitcake throughout the holidays but not on feast days.

With the exception of those things mentioned above, I must admit that this was really not a big challenge for us.  We not only live in a well-endowed food community with a favorable climate, we typically source our food within a 50-mile radius or at least within the state.  There are some few exceptions that purists might scoff at.  We regularly use some spices, sea salt and pepper, coffee, chocolate, baking soda, baking powder, and sugar that are not native to Virginia.

Here are menus from feast meals in 2008.  We are now sourcing similar menus for 2009 Thanksgiving and Christmas.

50-Mile Thanksgiving Menu 2008                            Virginia Artisanal Cheeses Homemade Crackers Winter Squash Bisque Turkey, Gravy, and Chestnut Dressing Country Ham Sweet Potatoes Mashed White Potatoes Home Canned Green Beans Creamed Onions Braised Kale Baking Powder Biscuits Pumpkin Pie Apple Pie Vintage Virginia Cider Lemon Verbena Tea Barboursville Wines

50-Mile Christmas Menu 2008   Virginia Artisinal Cheeses Cheese Straws Bloody Mary’s Mushroom Soup Standing Rib Beef Roast Horseradish Sauce Roasted Root Vegetables Braised Swiss Chard Lemon Verbena Sorbet Herb Biscuits Pumpkin Pie Apple Pie Pecan Pie Applesauce Cake Lemon Verbena Tea Barboursville Wines Egg Nog

We purchased our pasture-raised turkey at C’ville Market and our standing rib roast from Gryffon’s Aerie Farm near White Hall. We found the vegetables: kale, Swiss chard, potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, onions, carrots, parsnips, rutabagas and beets from farmers we met at the farmers markets earlier in the season and from local grocery stores that carry local produce.  Apples, sweet potatoes and cider we bought at Vintage Virginia Apple Harvest Festival.  Parsley, sage, rosemary, thyme, and lemon verbena come from our garden, others from Harvest Thyme Herb Farm. Honey, sorghum, and chestnuts we found in Nelson County. We have a source of whole raw milk from which we churn butter and we buy rendered lard from a local pork producer.  We used our own home canned green beans and tomato juice.

Maple sugar we found in Highland County ( a bit beyond the 50-mile limit).  We bought cornmeal from Massy Mill in Amherst and had to go a little further for flour from Byrd Mill.  However these items are Virginia agricultural products and are available in Charlottesville at Foods of All Nations and other area specialty food stores.

The 100-Mile Diet is about learning by doing, getting to know the seasons, and understanding where our foods come from.  It is true that certain foods make it back into our daily diets, chocolate, coffee, and spices, for which I make to apologies or substitutes.  For these 2 feast meals, however, they are eliminated.

Some notes on sweeteners and shortening.

I took a little more time experimenting with local sweeteners: maple syrup and honey, and shortening; modifications are below.  Using these simple rules, many recipes may  be modified to comply with the 50-Mile criteria.

When baking, substitute 3/4 cup maple sugar for 1 cup sugar, and then increase the liquid in the recipe by 3 tablespoons per cup of sugar recommended.  If baking soda is used, decrease the amount by 1/4 teaspoon per cup of sugar substituted.  Substitute 3/4 cup honey for each cup of granulated sugar called for in recipe, then reduce another liquid in the recipe by 1/4 cup, adding 1/4 teaspoon baking soda.  Reduce oven temperature by 25 degrees—(substituting honey for sugar alters the flavor and tends to make baked goods moister, chewier and darker.)

In recipes where shortening is recommended, in pie crusts and biscuits for example, I  substituted 1/2 lard and 1/2 butter for the amount of shortening indicated.

When you get a taste of the fresh flavors of local foods, you’ll want to continue to source your foods locally.  We’ve also found that the habit of sourcing local foods extends into our travels where we’ve found Tennessee whiskey, Vermont cheeses, Maryland crab, and more—you get the message.  Practice eating local wherever you are.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Early poets and writers seemed to hold the fig in little regard but to me they are true gems.  (Robert Loveman “A health unto the happy! A fig for him who frets! It is not raining rain to me, It’s raining violets.”).

I have had an illusive relationship with local figs.  Once at 4-H Camp on the James River, when I was about ten years old, I found a fig tree with a few ripe figs.  I did not know what they were but the councilor admonished me not to pick them and certainly not eat them.  Weeks later, my father told me that he thought it might be a fig tree I had found.

The fig, brought to this country by the Spaniards, grows well in the South.  They grow quickly and produce fruit in only one year, however the fruit does not ripen all at once and is quite perishable, rendering them unsuitable as a cash crop.  Still fig trees survive well in back yards and can be found at farmers markets and road side stands for a king’s ransom.

Figs grow well in sunny sheltered areas. Thomas Jefferson planted trees below his vegetable garden, sheltered by a retaining wall.  I have been there for fruit tasting when the figs were ripening.  What a memorable treat to pick and eat a fresh fig at Monticello.

My next encounter was at Virginia Beach, where my then father-in-law planted a fig tree to give privacy to a breezeway through which we all ran, freshly showered, to our rooms to dress.  He chose the tree because it grew rapidly; the figs were not his first consideration.  The tree quickly provided the needed privacy and produced prolifically both spring and fall.  It was then that I scoured cookbooks for fig recipes as we ate them to our hearts content.  All of that is gone now but I am always on the lookout for fig trees.

From Gourmet’s Old Vienna Cookbook 1959, I gleaned these ideas for enjoying fresh figs at the beach..

Serve fresh fig, chilled with coarse ground black pepper and pinch of sea salt.

Fresh figs served with prosciutto and a wedge of lime or as Virginians would say, “a thin slice of country ham”

Serve with mild smoked salmon, pepper and wedge of lemon.

Several years ago, visiting friends in Jamestown, where John Smith reported a good harvest of figs in 1629, I found a fig tree loaded with figs and honeybees.  Our host did not harvest the figs because of the bees, but Ron, my husband, was not deterred by the bees—a bit like Pooh Bear.  We rushed home with several bushels of figs; made preserves, ate them fresh with country ham and created the torte below.

 Fresh Fig, Mascarpone and Pesto Torte.

Crust:  Grind 1 cup wheat thins with 1/2 cup pine nuts (toasted); add1 tablespoon butter  (melted and cooled).  Preheat oven to 325 degrees and butter a 10 inch spring form pan.  In a bowl stir together crust ingredients. Press mixture into bottom of pan and bake until lightly brown, about 10 minutes.

Filling:  Cream together 1 pound cream cheese (room temperature) with 1 cup Mascarpone and 3 eggs.

Prepare 1 cup homemade basil pesto: In a food processor combine 2 cups fresh basil leaves, slowly add 1/4 cup virgin olive oil, and then add 1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

Cut 12 large figs into quarters

Sauce: Simmer 1/2 cup fig preserves and 2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar in a saucepan for 3 minutes.

Assembly: Spread 1/2 cheese filling over crust.  Drop dollops of pesto onto filling.  Place figs equally over the top and pour remaining filling over all.  Bake in a 325 degree preheated oven for an hour or until the top is brown and set.  Cool on a rack and chill for at least 4 hours or for up to several days.

To serve, slice in small wedges and garnish with a fresh fig quarters and a basil leaf. Drizzle sauce over all.

From time to time, my dear friend, Edith Coleman, shares figs with me that are given to her by a friend.  I am now in possession of about twenty pounds, but they are frozen.  I’m going to make preserves of them because I fear that, having been frozen, they will not withstand the canning process without becoming mushy.  I feel certain that, as a preserve, they will do well.

Fig Preserves:  Wash and dry figs; remove stems and cut in half or quarters.  Placing in a bowl, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt per 5 pounds and toss. Measure washed figs and for each 1 quart of fruit (about 2 1/2 pounds), add 3 cups sugar; mix and let stand at room temperature, with salt and sugar, 10 minutes to draw some of the juices from the fruit.  Pour juice and fruit into a non-reactive kettle; set over low heat and cook stirring until sugar dissolves; cover; remove from heat; let stand overnight.  The next day, bring to a boil, adding 1 stick cinnamon, 1 inch fresh ginger (pealed) and a few whole cloves, tied in a spice bag.  Cook slowly, stirring occasionally until fruit is clear and syrup is thick.  Remove spices; pour into hot pint or half-pint jars, apply seals and rings, process in hot water bath for 10 minutes.  Store in a cool dark place and let mellow before serving.  Will store for up to a year. 

Canned Figs:  2 1/2 pounds will yield 1 quart.  Use only firm figs, washed and drained, do not peel or stem.  To hot pack: dissolve 1/8 cup sugar per quart in water to cover figs; bring to a boil; add figs; return to boil; remove from heat; let stand off heat 5 minutes and drain; reserve liquid and return to boil.  Fill jars with figs to within 1/2” of tops, adding 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice to quart; cover with boiling liquid.  Seal with lids and rings; process in water bath for 1 hour and 30 minutes.  Serve at room temperature with a little liquid poured over each serving or puree and use as a filling.  These figs are delicious served with country ham. 

Poached Dried Figs:  Dried Figs may be poached and resemble preserves.  Add 2 dozen dried figs to a shallow pan; add 2 cups water and 3 tablespoons sugar along with 2 tablespoons lemon juice and several slices fresh ginger.  Simmer 10 minutes and cool in syrup to room temperature.  Refrigerate.

Figs Stuffed with Chocolate:  While making chocolate dipped crystallized ginger for Christmas gift, I concocted this delicious confection.  Cut a slit beside the stems of large soft dried figs and with your finger, widen a pocket in each fig.  In a small non-reactive pot melt 5 ounces of very fine chocolate with 1/2 c heavy cream, stirring constantly and remove from heat; stir until cold, add 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract or better still, some dark rum or B&B.  Fill figs and reshape them.  Dip in melted chocolate and dry on wire rack.

 

 

 

                                                      

MY KITCHEN

By way of introduction, I am Rowena Morrel, creator of In The Kitchen Magazine and In The Kitchen Online.  Come on in to my kitchen—let’s get acquainted.  Here is where I spend the majority of my time.  My kitchen is painted a magical color of blue that seems to change with the day time sky.  The front wall is all glass and overlooks my enclosed patio appointed with hand tools and small farm implement (circa 1900-1930), remains of my childhood on a farm in Louisa County Virginia.  The patio hosts my tiny vegetable and herb garden.  Above the sliding glass door and extended across the base cabinet area is a long narrow shelf that holds another collection of house wares from the farm.  Long ago I removed the upper cabinet doors to create a more country look and feel.  

Though this 1965 townhouse kitchen is fairly large (where we dine, read and watch TV) the cooking area is quite small, with only one work station and a simple trio of appliances.  Mixer with meat grinder and pasta machine, a food processor, and coffee maker complete the complement of appliances. I have none of the appliances most often acquired and seldom used by frenzied would be cooks.  I prefer to slice and dice by hand; requiring a good set of knives and I should mention a full set of cast iron pots and pans collected over the last 60 years, a set of waterless stainless covered cast iron pans (now over 40 years old), some enamel covered cast iron and a professional set of bake ware.  I use stone crocks to hold my utensils and keep a big stack of tea towels in a basket.  We don’t use paper kitchen products.  Materials for composting and recycling are out side in a storage shed where the freezer is located. This small kitchen is equipped for real cooking, the drawback is insufficient storage space.

Recently, I went to William Sonoma in Short Pump, Virginia, gift card in hand, and could not find anything that was reasonably affordable and that was not a replica of my originals—beautiful, shiny and new–but nothing seemed more useful than my own lifetime collection.

The greatest challenge is space. Ron, my husband, customized every possible square inch of space to enhance storage, building shelves in the closet that once housed only the washer and dryer.  This area is now my pantry. Dishes are stored in an old sideboard flanked by glass front bookcases where home canned goods and a collection of old tin molds are kept.  Another built-in provides pantry space for locally grown and dried or homemade items such as beans, noodles, nuts, herbs and such, along with home made vinegars all stored in old glass jars and crocks. Handmade baskets hang in front of the window and hold sundries for canning and drying herbs, fruits and vegetables.

Here I spend a good part of my day, preparing our meals, faithfully practicing progressive cooking, carefully preserving our food stuffs for future use, developing new recipes, kitchen testing old ones and creating the Monthly Meal Planner.  From my small culinary haven, I create the recipes and menus for  In The Kitchen Magazine and In The Kitchen Online. Come and visit me often.