In The Kitchen

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Early poets and writers seemed to hold the fig in little regard but to me they are true gems.  (Robert Loveman “A health unto the happy! A fig for him who frets! It is not raining rain to me, It’s raining violets.”).

I have had an illusive relationship with local figs.  Once at 4-H Camp on the James River, when I was about ten years old, I found a fig tree with a few ripe figs.  I did not know what they were but the councilor admonished me not to pick them and certainly not eat them.  Weeks later, my father told me that he thought it might be a fig tree I had found.

The fig, brought to this country by the Spaniards, grows well in the South.  They grow quickly and produce fruit in only one year, however the fruit does not ripen all at once and is quite perishable, rendering them unsuitable as a cash crop.  Still fig trees survive well in back yards and can be found at farmers markets and road side stands for a king’s ransom.

Figs grow well in sunny sheltered areas. Thomas Jefferson planted trees below his vegetable garden, sheltered by a retaining wall.  I have been there for fruit tasting when the figs were ripening.  What a memorable treat to pick and eat a fresh fig at Monticello.

My next encounter was at Virginia Beach, where my then father-in-law planted a fig tree to give privacy to a breezeway through which we all ran, freshly showered, to our rooms to dress.  He chose the tree because it grew rapidly; the figs were not his first consideration.  The tree quickly provided the needed privacy and produced prolifically both spring and fall.  It was then that I scoured cookbooks for fig recipes as we ate them to our hearts content.  All of that is gone now but I am always on the lookout for fig trees.

From Gourmet’s Old Vienna Cookbook 1959, I gleaned these ideas for enjoying fresh figs at the beach..

Serve fresh fig, chilled with coarse ground black pepper and pinch of sea salt.

Fresh figs served with prosciutto and a wedge of lime or as Virginians would say, “a thin slice of country ham”

Serve with mild smoked salmon, pepper and wedge of lemon.

Several years ago, visiting friends in Jamestown, where John Smith reported a good harvest of figs in 1629, I found a fig tree loaded with figs and honeybees.  Our host did not harvest the figs because of the bees, but Ron, my husband, was not deterred by the bees—a bit like Pooh Bear.  We rushed home with several bushels of figs; made preserves, ate them fresh with country ham and created the torte below.

 Fresh Fig, Mascarpone and Pesto Torte.

Crust:  Grind 1 cup wheat thins with 1/2 cup pine nuts (toasted); add1 tablespoon butter  (melted and cooled).  Preheat oven to 325 degrees and butter a 10 inch spring form pan.  In a bowl stir together crust ingredients. Press mixture into bottom of pan and bake until lightly brown, about 10 minutes.

Filling:  Cream together 1 pound cream cheese (room temperature) with 1 cup Mascarpone and 3 eggs.

Prepare 1 cup homemade basil pesto: In a food processor combine 2 cups fresh basil leaves, slowly add 1/4 cup virgin olive oil, and then add 1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

Cut 12 large figs into quarters

Sauce: Simmer 1/2 cup fig preserves and 2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar in a saucepan for 3 minutes.

Assembly: Spread 1/2 cheese filling over crust.  Drop dollops of pesto onto filling.  Place figs equally over the top and pour remaining filling over all.  Bake in a 325 degree preheated oven for an hour or until the top is brown and set.  Cool on a rack and chill for at least 4 hours or for up to several days.

To serve, slice in small wedges and garnish with a fresh fig quarters and a basil leaf. Drizzle sauce over all.

From time to time, my dear friend, Edith Coleman, shares figs with me that are given to her by a friend.  I am now in possession of about twenty pounds, but they are frozen.  I’m going to make preserves of them because I fear that, having been frozen, they will not withstand the canning process without becoming mushy.  I feel certain that, as a preserve, they will do well.

Fig Preserves:  Wash and dry figs; remove stems and cut in half or quarters.  Placing in a bowl, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt per 5 pounds and toss. Measure washed figs and for each 1 quart of fruit (about 2 1/2 pounds), add 3 cups sugar; mix and let stand at room temperature, with salt and sugar, 10 minutes to draw some of the juices from the fruit.  Pour juice and fruit into a non-reactive kettle; set over low heat and cook stirring until sugar dissolves; cover; remove from heat; let stand overnight.  The next day, bring to a boil, adding 1 stick cinnamon, 1 inch fresh ginger (pealed) and a few whole cloves, tied in a spice bag.  Cook slowly, stirring occasionally until fruit is clear and syrup is thick.  Remove spices; pour into hot pint or half-pint jars, apply seals and rings, process in hot water bath for 10 minutes.  Store in a cool dark place and let mellow before serving.  Will store for up to a year. 

Canned Figs:  2 1/2 pounds will yield 1 quart.  Use only firm figs, washed and drained, do not peel or stem.  To hot pack: dissolve 1/8 cup sugar per quart in water to cover figs; bring to a boil; add figs; return to boil; remove from heat; let stand off heat 5 minutes and drain; reserve liquid and return to boil.  Fill jars with figs to within 1/2” of tops, adding 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice to quart; cover with boiling liquid.  Seal with lids and rings; process in water bath for 1 hour and 30 minutes.  Serve at room temperature with a little liquid poured over each serving or puree and use as a filling.  These figs are delicious served with country ham. 

Poached Dried Figs:  Dried Figs may be poached and resemble preserves.  Add 2 dozen dried figs to a shallow pan; add 2 cups water and 3 tablespoons sugar along with 2 tablespoons lemon juice and several slices fresh ginger.  Simmer 10 minutes and cool in syrup to room temperature.  Refrigerate.

Figs Stuffed with Chocolate:  While making chocolate dipped crystallized ginger for Christmas gift, I concocted this delicious confection.  Cut a slit beside the stems of large soft dried figs and with your finger, widen a pocket in each fig.  In a small non-reactive pot melt 5 ounces of very fine chocolate with 1/2 c heavy cream, stirring constantly and remove from heat; stir until cold, add 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract or better still, some dark rum or B&B.  Fill figs and reshape them.  Dip in melted chocolate and dry on wire rack.